End of season Tsugaike-Kogen Nature Park (Story time: part 1)

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In a ぎりぎり style, I only finally mustered up enough gumption to embark on Tsugaike Kogen’s nature park hike the very day before the final gondola trip of the autumn season.

11/2, It’s forecast to rain from 12pm, therefore the earlier the better for this trip. Originally I thought the gondola started turning from 7am. However, after a groggy 6am revise, matching the business hours to the array of dates they present. I realise in these final days the earliest gondola departs at 8am.

The knowing of an extra hour, keeps me snug in bed along with the comforting weight of 2 duvets and a thick もうふ.

7:20, I finally emerge to an already heated room to put on some hiking gear. For the first time this season it’s time to crack out the snowboard wear. I hiked Mount Fuji in my snowboard jacket and pants, surely that means it’s tough enough for this trail. I can’t help but notice the stark contrast in layers this time compared to my late spring hike up Happo One. I don’t want to admit that a freezing winter is just around the corner so, I leave my gloves at home. Something I may regret.

Ryo picks me up, a quick stop at Lawson and then we are parking up at the Tsugaike ski slope base. To the right beautiful bluebird skies are lit up by the sun. To the left the Mount Hakuba Norikura is engulfed in ominous grey cloud. With a blissful ignorance and unfounded wishfulness I hope the clouds might just sort of disappear the higher we climb. Not completely out of scope of reality after seeing some footage of camera’s 1829 meters up on a TV screen in the reception.

After a 5 minute and a 15 minute gondola and a 5 minute, 71 person capacity ropeway, or as they say a hop, skip and a boat ride away, we arrive at the entrance to the Nature park.

During the gondola rides we sailed through glorious seas of burnt crimson, deep orange and crisp gold autumn leaves. With the sun reflecting on them to emblazon their colours against the vivid blue sky. Here however, autumn has passed. The foliage has fallen and the twisting branches lay bare.

I spy my first informed and natural sighting of Usnea, commonly known as Lichen’s beard. It’s a unique plant that does not have any roots. It hangs from high branches sucking in moisture from the air and bathing in sunlight to keep it satiated. It almost looks fake, as if someone has forgotten to take down cobweb decorations and, over wind, rain and time they slumped together and tinged them an eerie green, as they try hopelessly to be freed by the wind. I very much like them.

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